National park service windows

To demonstrate the practicality of this approach, and photograph it, a Technical Preservation Services staff member repaired a wooden double-hung, two over two window which had been in service over ninety years.

The wood was structurally sound but the window had one broken pane, many layers of paint, broken sash cords and inadequate, worn-out weatherstripping. The staff member found that the frame could be stripped of paint and the sash removed quite easily.

Paint, putty and glass removal required about one hour for each sash, and the reglazing of both sash was accomplished in about one hour.

Weatherstripping of the sash and frame, replacement of the sash cords and reinstallation of the sash, parting bead, and stop required an hour and a half. These times refer only to individual operations; the entire process took several days due to the drying and curing times for putty, primer, and paint, however, work on other window units could have been in progress during these lag times.

The preceding description of a window repair job focused on a unit which was operationally sound. Many windows will show some additional degree of physical deterioration, especially in the vulnerable areas mentioned earlier, but even badly damaged windows can be repaired using simple processes.

Partially decayed wood can be waterproofed, patched, built-up, or consolidated and then painted to achieve a sound condition, good appearance, and greatly extended life. Three techniques for repairing partially decayed or weathered wood are discussed in this section, and all three can be accomplished using products available at most hardware stores. One established technique for repairing wood which is split, checked or shows signs of rot, is to:. Care should be taken with the use of fungicide which is toxic.

Follow the manufacturers' directions and use only on areas which will be painted. When using any technique of building up or patching a flat surface, the finished surface should be sloped slightly to carry water away from the window and not allow it to puddle. Caulking of the joints between the sill and the jamb will help reduce further water penetration. This illustrates a two-part expoxy patching compound used to fill the surface of a weathered sill and rebuild the missing edge. When the epoxy cures, it can be sanded smooth and painted to achieve a durable and waterproof repair.

When sills or other members exhibit surface weathering they may also be built-up using wood putties or homemade mixtures such as sawdust and resorcinol glue, or whiting and varnish.

These mixtures can be built up in successive layers, then sanded, primed, and painted. The same caution about proper slope for flat surfaces applies to this technique. Wood may also be strengthened and stabilized by consolidation, using semirigid epoxies which saturate the porous decayed wood and then harden. The surface of the consolidated wood can then be filled with a semirigid epoxy patching compound, sanded and painted.

Epoxy patching compounds can be used to build up missing sections or decayed ends of members. Profiles can be duplicated using hand molds, which are created by pressing a ball of patching compound over a sound section of the profile which has been rubbed with butcher's wax. This can be a very efficient technique where there are many typical repairs to be done.

The process has been widely used and proven in marine applications; and proprietary products are available at hardware and marine supply stores. Although epoxy materials may be comparatively expensive, they hold the promise of being among the most durable and long lasting materials available for wood repair.

More information on epoxies can be found in the publication "Epoxies for Wood Repairs in Historic Buildings," cited in the bibliography. Any of the three techniques discussed can stabilize and restore the appearance of the window unit. There are times, however, when the degree of deterioration is so advanced that stabilization is impractical, and the only way to retain some of the original fabric is to replace damaged parts.

When parts of the frame or sash are so badly deteriorated that they cannot be stabilized there are methods which permit the retention of some of the existing or original fabric.

These methods involve replacing the deteriorated parts with new matching pieces, or splicing new wood into existing members. The techniques require more skill and are more expensive than any of the previously discussed alternatives. Most millwork firms can duplicate parts, such as muntins, bottom rails, or sills, which can then be incorporated into the existing window, but it may be necessary to shop around because there are several factors controlling the practicality of this approach.

Some woodworking mills do not like to repair old sash because nails or other foreign objects in the sash can damage expensive knives which cost far more than their profits on small repair jobs ; others do not have cutting knives to duplicate muntin profiles. Some firms prefer to concentrate on larger jobs with more profit potential, and some may not have a craftsman who can duplicate the parts. A little searching should locate a firm which will do the job, and at a reasonable price.

If such a firm does not exist locally, there are firms which undertake this kind of repair and ship nationwide. It is possible, however, for the advanced do-it-yourselfer or craftsman with a table saw to duplicate moulding profiles using techniques discussed by Gordie Whittington in "Simplified Methods for Reproducing Wood Mouldings," Bulletin of the Association for Preservation Technology, Vol. III, No. The repairs discussed in this section involve window frames which may be in very deteriorated condition, possibly requiring removal; therefore, caution is in order.

The actual construction of wooden window frames and sash is not complicated. Pegged mortise and tenon units can be disassembled easily, if the units are out of the building. The installation or connection of some frames to the surrounding structure, especially masonry walls, can complicate the work immeasurably, and may even require dismantling of the wall. It may be useful, therefore, to take the following approach to frame repair:.

Another alternative may be considered if parts replacement is required, and that is sash replacement. If extensive replacement of parts is necessary and the job becomes prohibitively expensive it may be more practical to purchase new sash which can be installed into the existing frames.

Such sash are available as exact custom reproductions, reasonable facsimiles custom windows with similar profiles , and contemporary wooden sash which are similar in appearance. There are companies which still manufacture high quality wooden sash which would duplicate most historic sash. A few calls to local building suppliers may provide a source of appropriate replacement sash, but if not, check with local historical associations, the state historic preservation office, or preservation related magazines and supply catalogs for information.

If a rehabilitation project has a large number of windows such as a commercial building or an industrial complex, there may be less of a problem arriving at a solution. Once the evaluation of the windows is completed and the scope of the work is known, there may be a potential economy of scale. Woodworking mills may be interested in the work from a large project; new sash in volume may be considerably less expensive per unit; crews can be assembled and trained on site to perform all of the window repairs; and a few extensive repairs can be absorbed without undue burden into the total budget for a large number of sound windows.

While it may be expensive for the average historic home owner to pay seventy dollars or more for a mill to grind a custom knife to duplicate four or five bad muntins, that cost becomes negligible on large commercial projects which may have several hundred windows.

Most windows should not require the extensive repairs discussed in this section. The drive-time from Arches Visitor Center is approximately 25 minutes. Visiting this area is ideal for people limited on time and those not looking for a strenuous hike. The first yards may be accessible to wheelchairs with assistance.

The Windows parking lot, though large, regularly fills to capacity. Consider leaving and coming back at a later time if the lot is full — waiting for a spot can cause significant congestion. Avoid crowds and the heat by visiting in the early morning hours or late afternoon. You can take an easy walk to Double Arch from the other side of the loop road. There is a smaller parking area there, or you can walk on a trail between the Windows trailhead and the Double Arch trailhead.

Visiting the Windows can be a thrilling and rewarding experience for visitors of all ages. Help protect the park by leaving no trace and staying on established trails. The use of running water to remove chemical residue is never recommended because the water may spread the chemicals to adjacent surfaces, and drying of these surfaces may be more difficult. Acid cleaning compounds will stain masonry; therefore plastic sheets should be taped to the edge of the metal sections to protect the masonry surrounds.

The same measure should be followed to protect the glazing from etching because of acid contact. The historic steel sash is shown in place, prior to its removal and replacement with inappropriate aluminum sash see below. Measures that remove rust will ordinarily remove flaking paint as well. Remaining loose or flaking paint can be removed with a chemical paint remover or with a pneumatic needle scaler or gun, which comes with a series of chisel blades and has proven effective in removing flaking paint from metal windows.

Well-bonded paint may serve to protect the metal further from corrosion, and need not be removed unless paint buildup prevents the window from closing tightly. The edges should be feathered by sanding to give a good surface for repainting. Next, any bare metal should be wiped with a cleaning solvent such as denatured alcohol, and dried immediately in preparation for the application of an anticorrosive primer. Since corrosion can recur very soon after metal has been exposed to the air, the metal should be primed immediately after cleaning.

Spot priming may be required periodically as other repairs are undertaken. Anticorrosive primers generally consist of oil-alkyd based paints rich in zinc or zinc chromate. All metal primers, however, are toxic to some degree and should be handled carefully.

Two coats of primer are recommended. Manufacturer's recommendations should be followed concerning application of primers. The maintenance procedures described above will be insufficient when corrosion is extensive, or when metal window sections are misaligned.

Medium to heavy corrosion that has not done any structural damage to the metal sections can be removed either by using the chemical cleaning process described under "Routine Maintenance" or by sandblasting. Since sandblasting can damage the masonry surrounds and crack or cloud the glass, metal or plywood shields should be used to protect these materials. The sandblasting pressure should be low, pounds per square inch, and the grit size should be in the range of 10— Glass peening beads glass pellets have also been successfully used in cleaning steel sections.

While sandblasting equipment comes with various nozzle sizes, pencil-point blasters are most useful because they give the operator more effective control over the direction of the spray. The small aperture of the pencil-point blaster is also useful in removing dried putty from the metal sections that hold the glass.

As with any cleaning technique, once the bare metal is exposed to air, it should be primed as soon as possible. This includes the inside rabbeted section of sash where glazing putty has been removed. To reduce the dust, some local codes allow only wet blasting. In this case, the metal must be dried immediately, generally with a blowdrier a step that the owner should consider when calculating the time and expense involved.

Either form of sandblasting metal covered with lead paints produces toxic dust. Proper precautionary measures should be taken against toxic dust and silica particles. The historic steel sash see photo above was removed and replaced with modern aluminum sash, resulting in a negative visual impact on the building's historic character.

Bent or bowed metal sections may be the result of damage to the window through an impact or corrosive expansion. If the distortion is not too great, it is possible to re-align the metal sections without removing the window to a metal fabricator's shop. The glazing is generally removed and pressure is applied to the bent or bowed section. In the case of a muntin, a protective 2 x 4 wooden bracing can be placed behind the bent portion and a wire cable with a winch can apply progressively more pressure over several days until the section is realigned.

The 2 x 4 bracing is necessary to distribute the pressure evenly over the damaged section. Sometimes a section, such as the bottom of the frame, will bow out as a result of pressure exerted by corrosion and it is often necessary to cut the metal section to relieve this pressure prior to pressing the section back into shape and making a welded repair.

Once the metal sections have been cleaned of all corrosion and straightened, small holes and uneven areas resulting from rusting should be filled with a patching material and sanded smooth to eliminate pockets where water can accumulate. A patching material of steel fibers and an epoxy binder may be the easiest to apply. This steel-based epoxy is available for industrial steel repair; it can also be found in auto body patching compounds or in plumber's epoxy.

As with any product, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper use and best results. The traditional patching technique—melting steel welding rods to fill holes in the metal sections—may be difficult to apply in some situations; moreover, the window glass must be removed during the repair process, or it will crack from the expansion of the heated metal sections. After these repairs, glass replacement, hinge lubrication, painting, and other cosmetic repairs can be undertaken as necessary.

To complete the checklist for routine maintenance, cracked glass, deteriorated glazing compound, missing screws, and broken fasteners will have to be replaced; hinges cleaned and lubricated; the metal windows painted, and the masonry surrounds caulked. If the glazing must be replaced, all clips, glazing beads, and other fasteners that hold the glass to the sash should be retained, if possible, although replacements for these parts are still being fabricated.

When bedding glass, use only glazing compound formulated for metal windows. To clean the hinges generally brass or bronze , a cleaning solvent and fine bronze wool should be used. The hinges should then be lubricated with a non-greasy lubricant specially formulated for metals and with an anticorrosive agent.

These lubricants are available in a spray form and should be used periodically on frequently opened windows. Final painting of the windows with a paint compatible with the anticorrosive primer should proceed on a dry day.

Paint and primer from the same manufacturer should be used. Two coats of finish paint are recommended if the sections have been cleaned to bare metal. The paint should overlap the glass slightly to insure weathertightness at that connection. Once the paint dries thoroughly, a flexible exterior caulk can be applied to eliminate air and moisture infiltration where the window and the surrounding masonry meet. Caulking is generally undertaken after the windows have received at least one coat of finish paint.

The perimeter of the masonry surround should be caulked with a flexible elastomeric compound that will adhere well to both metal and masonry. The caulking used should be a type intended for exterior application, have a high tolerance for material movement, be resistant to ultraviolet light, and have a minimum durability of 10 years. Three effective compounds taking price and other factors into consideration are polyurethane, vinyl acrylic, and butyl rubber. In selecting a caulking material for a window retrofit, it is important to remember that the caulking compound may be covering other materials in a substrate.

In this case, some compounds, such as silicone, may not adhere well. Almost all modern caulking compounds can be painted after curing completely. Many come in a range of colors, which eliminates the need to paint. If colored caulking is used, the windows should have been given two coats of finish paint prior to caulking.

Damage to windows may be so severe that the window sash and sometimes the frame must be removed for cleaning and extensive rust removal, straightening of bent sections, welding or splicing in of new sections, and reglazing. These major and expensive repairs are reserved for highly significant windows that cannot be replaced; the procedures involved should be carried out only by skilled workmen.

As part of the orderly removal of windows, each window should be numbered and the parts labeled. The operable metal sash should be dismantled by removing the hinges; the fixed sash and, if necessary, the frame can then be unbolted or unscrewed. The subframe is usually left in place. Built into the masonry surrounds, it can only be cut out with a torch. Hardware and hinges should be labeled and stored together. The two major choices for removing flaking paint and corrosion from severely deteriorated windows are dipping in a chemical bath or sandblasting.

Both treatments require removal of the glass. If the windows are to be dipped, a phosphoric acid solution is preferred, as mentioned earlier.

While the dip tank method is good for fairly evenly distributed rust, deep set rust may remain after dipping. For that reason, sandblasting is more effective for heavy and uneven corrosion. Both methods leave the metal sections clean of residual paint.

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